Prepare a Literature review and report on moisturising effect of Glycerine

The beneficial effects and uses for Glycerine make it one of the most used ingredients in cosmetics worldwide. Furthermore, due to it being a waste product from large-scale biodiesel production for example, as well as many other processes using soybeans or animal fat, it is in large supply and easy to obtain.

Glycerine’s role as a humectant is the main reason it is used in numerous cosmetics today, becoming one of the essential ingredients consumers search for when purchasing skincare. The rise of “wellness culture” and Beauty Gurus has created an environment where the average consumer is on the lookout for certain buzzwords on product packaging- These include ingredients like ‘Hyaluronic acid,’ ‘Hydroxy acids (AHAs) and Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)’ and Glycerine.

The types of products that usually contain Glycerine are topical skincare products like body creams and lip balms, as well as cleansing products like body washes and soaps.

According to Padmawar and Bhadoriya (2018), Glycerine “helps the skin to remain moistened and protect from excessive dryness.”

Quote- “Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that work by drawing water from the atmosphere to hydrate and soften the skin (other well-known humectants include hyaluronic acid and d-panthenol)”

Equally, there is evidence to suggest that glycerine reduces trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). This phenomenon occurs when water passively evaporates through the skin and can lead to skin dryness or exacerbate the symptoms of those dealing with skin conditions like eczema or psoriasis.

So, although glycerine is a popular and accessible ingredient in skincare it can be essential for some consumers. However, Lodén and Wessman’s 2001 double-blind study of the effects of using a moisturiser containing 20% Glycerine on hydration, sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) sensitivity and trans-epidermal water loss in the skin counters this notion. In the 17 participants, of whom all were given the test cream and a placebo, skin showed increased hydration but there was no difference in the rate of TEWL.

Participants were instructed to apply the moisturiser twice daily on their forearms for a total of 10 days. Initial testing demonstrated that Glycerine can reduce TEWL for a few hours, but it is not a long-term solution as those effects wear off- so skin will remain moisturised but trans-epidermal water loss will continue to occur.

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